Vladimír KovalskýSK
A bridge crosses a river with a city skyline in the background

Belgrade

Metropolis of Serbia that is yet far from a real metropolis

2min read

Belgrade, the capital city of Serbia. I expect little, yet I receive even less. In a sense, it reminds of Bratislava - about twenty years ago. It exhibits a similar look and character of European historical streets mixed with the “modern” socialist buildings.

A former military fortress dominates the spot where the Danube and Sava rivers meet. It offers a great view of the city alongside few activities inside. Nearby lies the city center, where the streets are lined with restaurants and bars, a truly pleasant area. It’s only a shame that riverbanks remain almost entirely unutilized. I have no luck finding a pleasant promenade for a walk or rest. Instead I find ever-present garbage and graffiti. An absolute surprise though is public transport - it’s totally free for locals and also tourists - works remarkably well.

If there’s anything that can Belgrade offer, it’s certainly a vast collection of bold brutalist structures. I say bold deliberately, since their style is not for everybody - if it is for anybody. Whether you find them appealing or or not, they are interesting for sure. So if there’s something to see - then it’s this, especially if you’re a fan of architecture or brutalism. I’ll mention the Genex tower which got its nickname West gate and became an iconic part of the city’s skyline. Even if up close it looks like it’s ready for demolition.

Another landmark that can be seen from afar is Rudo complex, also known as East gate. Three massive apartment towers with an untraditionally skewed shape built strategically on top of a hill. They appear more impressive from afar than up close - quite a regular residential area actually. Last but not least, the city is full of apartment buildings in their original condition which over the time developed quite unwelcoming and harsh looks.

Belgrade is partially wasted potential, partially a city in development and partially just a mirror of local culture. A slight push in the right direction feels like it’s all it needs, and I could see it becoming a proper European metropolis.